Perfume Capital and Beyond. Explore Grasse in Style
Perfume Capital and Beyond. Explore Grasse in Style
What the tour is about
Follow the Scent: A Day of Perfume, Art and Provencal Charm in Grasse
“This equally homely and self-confident place was the town of Grasse, for decades now the uncontested centre for production of and commerce in scents, perfumes, soaps and oils. Giuseppe Baldini had always uttered the name of with enraptured delight. The town was the Rome of scents, the promised land of perfumers, and the man who had not earnes his spurs here did not rightfully bear the title of perfumer.” Perfume: The Story of a Murderer by Patrick Süskind
I first heard of Grasse in that very book – back when books arrived in parcels, not pixels. A gift from my French pen-pal (remember those?) – I tore into it while the Soviet Union collapsed outside my frosted window and a howling snowstorm played backup. I leapt from page to page, following Grenouille’s scent-obsessed madness, dreaming – quite impossibly – of someday setting foot in this mythical place.
Since then, I’ve walked hundreds of kilometres through its streets and hillsides, become friends with locals whose names (slightly changed, but instantly recognisable) became characters in Süskind’s novel, and even helped one of them run for mayor. (Long story. Funny too.) But my feelings for Grasse? Unchanged. And if you’ve got the time and curiosity, I’d be honoured to take you through its pages.
Because the city? It’s still here. Still the scent capital of the world, still the perfumers’ promised land. For better or worse
Go — but why, really
1
Because even the air in Grasse wears perfume
2
Because where else can you meet Rubens, Fragonard and your future signature scent in one afternoon?
3
Because you deserve a lunch with a view — and a village with 11 Nobel laureates
4
Because Molinard’s director once posed naked for her perfume. That’s the level we’re dealing with
5
Because the streets are steeped in stories, and thankfully not full of tourists
6
Because you’ll finally understand the difference between bergamot and just saying “mmm, citrusy”
Tour itinerary
Stop 1: Coffee first and the holy trinity of Grasse perfumery
The drive to the city takes about 40 minutes — just enough time for Grasse, like any self-respecting Provençal town, to slowly stretch, yawn, and open its eyes to the day. Shop shutters creak open. Voices echo lazily through cobbled lanes. And you? You’re sipping your first proper coffee of the day, nodding good morning to a town that feels like it’s been here forever.
Fragonard, Molinard and Galimard. Each one steeped in enough history and savoir-faire to keep you busy for a week. Legend has it that Jean de Galimard – the original nose – had the genius idea to perfume gloves with essential oils and gifted a pair to Catherine de’ Medici. That little act, as it turns out, sparked the entire perfumery industry here. The Galimard house has been going since 1747 – one of the oldest in the business. Respect.
Some directors say they’d give the shirt off their back for their company. The director of Molinard actually did. (If that doesn’t spark your curiosity, I don’t know what will.)
Fragonard, on the other hand, is the polished face of modern Grasse – all clean lines and curated shelves. Definitely worth a stop too.
So here’s what I suggest:
Molinard – Take a wander through their shop. Smell the Leather, with a capital L.
Fragonard – Pop into the museum. It’s a short visit, but you’ll see how perfumes were once made. Less factory, more alchemy.
Galimard – Try making your own perfume, if you’re feeling ambitious (and have the foresight to book ahead). You’ll get a certificate. And probably a headache. But you’ll smell fantastic.
Stop 2: Notre-Dame-du-Puy: Grasse’s Cathedral
Now, you’ve seen cathedrals. Impressive ones. This… isn’t that. It’s not Notre-Dame de Paris, nor Rouen, nor even Reims on a foggy day. It was built, quite pragmatically, in XIIth. century, to house a bishop who’d had enough of pirates attacking Antibes.
Built by frugal tradesmen and perfumers, it’s not big on grandeur. When they ran out of space, they simply tacked on a chapel. Baroque, naturally – never mind that it clashed a bit with the original Gothic. But here’s the thing: it makes for a perfect space to talk about symbolism in art, especially religious art. In the big cathedrals, you’re overwhelmed. Here? You can breathe.
Inside: three Rubens paintings – well, two originals and a copy, but who’s counting? Some Fragonard (the painter this time), a bit of Renaissance work, and peace. Real peace. Cool, quiet, understated. Just sit. Or play art critic. Or both
Stop 3: Pink Umbrellas, Cobblestones, and Princess Pauline’s Garden
Time for a stroll. We’ll need a few photogenic spots – this is the Instagram era. Thankfully, the old town is tiny. No risk of exhaustion, blisters, or dramatic fainting spells.
We’ll climb (no sweating, the car is still there) to a charming little garden with a panoramic view and absolutely no other tourists. You can even play pétanque there if the mood strikes. It’s the ideal place to try, if you’ve ever been curious about flinging metal balls at a patch of gravel
Stop 4: A Bit of Lunch in a Village with More Nobel Prizes than Bus Stops
Now here’s the odd bit: for a town famous for perfumes, Grasse is oddly underwhelming when it comes to food. But that gives us the perfect excuse to head up to Cabris – a small hilltop village mercifully untouched by coach tours.
Population: 1,400. Number of Nobel Prize winners: eleven. Also: noses for Louis Vuitton, Dior, and Hermès. Dior’s Sauvage was created right here. Seven good restaurants. And one of the best views on the Riviera. What more do you need?
Stop 4: And Finally… the Best Pastries ever
On the way back, we’ll swing by the best bakery on the coast and grab something sweet. To round off the day. A quiet, warm, fragrant end to an unhurried afternoon.
Because really – isn’t that how the best days should finish?
What's included
- Comfortable transportation, so you can just sit back and enjoy the views
- Guided tours – because wandering aimlessly can be fun, but knowing what you’re looking at is even better
- Time to explore on your own, get lost (but not too lost), and take photos that will make everyone else miserable
What's not
- Food and refreshments
- Entrance fees (if you find something that isn’t free)
- Tips for your charming driver/guide
Frequently asked questions
How many people will be in the group?
We like to keep things intimate. Our day tours usually host between 4 and 7 guests – just enough for great conversation and zero chance of being lost in the crowd
Is the tour suitable for people with limited mobility?
Our pace is relaxed, and we avoid strenuous walks or steep climbs. However, there may be short cobbled stretches or steps. If you have specific concerns, let us know in advance – we’ll do our best to accommodate you
Will there be free time or is everything guided?
Both! We believe in giving you the story and the space. Expect guided moments for context and colour, followed by time to wander, photograph, sip, or simply breathe
What language is the tour in?
Our tours are in English, French and Russian. If you speak irony, you’re in good company either way
Is lunch included?
Some tours include a light lunch or tasting – details are in the description. For others, we’ll guide you to local gems where you can eat what you fancy, not what’s pre-arranged for the masses
Where do we meet and when?
We’ll send you exact meeting details upon booking. Most tours depart from Cannes or Nice, and timings are clearly listed in the itinerary. If you’re arriving by cruise ship, we’ll make sure everything fits your docking schedule
What should I wear or bring?
Comfortable shoes, sunglasses, and a curiosity for beauty. In summer, a hat and a water bottle are a must. And perhaps a sense of humour – but you probably packed that already
What happens if it rains?
We carry on unless the weather gets truly ridiculous. A little drizzle never stopped a good story or a glass of rosé. In case of serious storms, we’ll be in touch to offer options
Can I book a private version of this tour?
Absolutely. Whether you’re a couple, a family, or just allergic to other tourists, we offer private versions tailored to your mood, mobility and mischief level
How do I book and pay?
Booking is simple via website link or WhatsApp. Payment is by card, cash or bank transfer. No hidden fees, no funny business
Think of it as aromatherapy, art appreciation, and lunch with a view — all in one civilised package 😎
